[free] The List - splashes
Quiz answers, plus the state of play for current high-end releases
All summer posts at Six Atmospheres are free to all:
The state of play, in a few words, of current Prestige releases for anyone wanting to celebrate the summer holidays with a little panache.
First, though, the answers from the little quiz I posted a couple of weeks back.
A Champagne you are serving has 3g/l sugar in it. Which of the following can it NOT be labelled? Zero dosage, Brut Nature, Extra Dry, Extra Brut, Brut.
Extra Dry. Extra Dry is…actually pretty sweet
Name a difference between the requirements of a Corpinnat and a Cava de Guarda Superior Gran Reserva
There are a few here. Corpinnat is geographically limited to Penedès, and Cava is not. Gran Reserva is 30 months aging, and Corpinnat is minimum 18. Both must be Organic.
er, what is Cava de Guarda Superior Gran Reserva again? Ah yes. But what is a Cava de Paraje Calificado?
A Cava from a single vineyard of exceptional quality that has to be accredited by the Cava Regulatory Council. There are currently only 8!
Machine harvesting is potentially quality-limiting for sparkling wine. Name two traditional method sparkling wine appellations outside France that may be machine harvested, though…
TrentoDOC is one. And English Sparkling Wine is another!
Name a difference between Classic Penedès and Corpinnat
The chief one is that Classic Penedès authorises many more grape varieties (basically most of the white varieties authorised in the Penedès DO for still wine)
Name one way in which the ‘Sussex’ wines (ie from the Sussex PDO) deliver the promise of higher quality versus “English Sparkling Wine” PDO (apart from the wines having to come from Sussex, of course).
The main real-world difference is that they can’t be machine harvested. Not that most quality ESWs are.
Champagne’s yield limit is set at 9,000 kg/per hectare for the 2025 harvest. A producer has 12,000kh per hectare on their vines. They are able to harvest is all, and all of it will become Champagne. How?
Because the extra is allowed to be put into their ‘Réserve Individuelle’, if they have space or want to make space by getting rid of other reserves, which can be ‘deblocked’ and authorised for future bottlings should they fall short of the authorised yield.
What is ‘Great British Classic Method’?
A logo used by a few English producers to guarantee their wines are traditional method, not Charmat. It hasn’t really taken off.
What can’t an ‘Elaborador Integral’ of Cava do that a Corpinnat producer can?
Buy grapes! There are quite a lot of restrictions on Corpinnat producers, though - certainly many more than there are for large Cava companies which rely heavily on bought-in grapes and base wine.
You meet a Champagne grower in a village. They tell you they have their own champagne brand, and that their vineyards are HVE (sustainability) certified. They are not a house - they don’t buy any grapes. You drink their champagne. You are drinking wine from uncertified vineyards. How?
This is because, like the majority of what the authorities call ‘grower champagnes’, they are an ‘RC’ or Récoltant-Cooperateur. Their grapes go to the village co-op, and the wines they receive back to sell under their own labels are (usually) products of the co-op as whole. So not only their grapes. Only ‘RM’, Récoltant-Manipulateur, growers, sell wine (almost) exclusively from their own vineyards.
Right, enough of that…and onto some recommendations:
Prestige Cuvée Champagne
Billecart-Salmon Nicolas François 2012
This is excellent, and superior to the 2008, although for the money I think the Louis and Elizabeth Salmon currently have their noses in front.
Billecart-Salmon Elizabeth Salmon 2012
Supple, delicious. I’d give it longer myself - hunt for some 2009 for current drinking if you can.
Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Louis 2012
A relatively open Louis, definitely high class. Just about drinking well, but more time pretty much essential. Once again 2009 is drinking well, and 2007 is excellent.
Billecart-Salmon Le Clos Saint Hilaire 2009
This Clos is smashing. Maybe a bit less structured than some, but there’s immense pleasure here already. Feels a bit more special, young, than some previous releases.
Bollinger La Grande Année 2015
I was never quite as enthusiastic about these 2015s (incl) the rosé as some were, but they’re fully of Bollinger swagger and substance. I found the 2014s and 2012s rather finer, though, and you can still find them widely. The PNAYC18 and PNVZY19 challenge these Grand Années for VFM.
Bollinger R.D. 2008
My experience with this is that is has closed down a bit. If you have some, consider waiting longer now.
Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 2014
Opening up beautifully now. Relatively easy-going for a prestige blanc de blancs, but it’s hitting its stride. Go for it.
Charles Heidsieck Champagne Charlie
The new edition of this, based on the 2019 vintage, is stunning. However the bottle I had completely shut down after 2 hours, and felt rather muted and sweet. So…don’t take longer than 2 hours to drink it. OR, more constructively, cellar it….
Dom Pérignon 2015
A crowd-pleaser, although fizz nerds often point out that it is slightly affected by some of the stalky, vegetal aromas found in the year. The 2013 is rather more elegant. Non fizz nerds will be perfectly happy, though.
Dom Pérignon 2008 P2
A screamer, essentially. Give it some time, space, and decent glasses…
Dom Pérignon Rosé 2009
DP have been on this rosé for a while now. Mature, juicy, broad, gastronomic. Not the most incisive vintage but it hits the right buttons. Go for the 2008 if you can find it.
Dom Ruinart 2013
Serious quality. But it needs time. Wait. The 2010 is drinking gloriously.
Dom Ruinart Rosé 2009
This, for current drinking, is pretty much perfect. Ultra refined. Especially in magnum…
Krug 173rd edition, 2017 youngest wines
Krug have done a good job with this difficult harvest base, although the previous 172, 171 and 170 editions are undoubtedly superior. Still, it’s very open and expressive for a young Grande Cuvée. The rosé is the same.
Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle 26th editition
Just so silky and reassuring. Such a sure bet, although I disagree with some that say it is the best Grand Siècle ever - 25th is superior!
Louis Roederer Cristal 2016
It’s one of the great Cristals of the last decade. But don’t go anywhere near it today! Cristal Rosé 2014 is beautiful and a little more approachable now.
Perrier-Jouët La Belle Epoque 2016
This needs time to develop interest, although it’s nicely made and relatively approachable - which is what P-J want for this wine.
Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2018
This is just a jolly nice Winston. Quite open and flavoursome, not too dilute as some 2018s are. For current drinking it’s a good shout (and much better than the 2015). I suspect it will be very popular.
Rare 2012
Very good stuff this. Yes it’s Rare - it can be on the sweeter side, not a challenging cuvée, but plush and refined. Since the 2008, and even the 2002, are comparable in price sometimes it can be worth hunting for the old ones. I’d tuck some of this away and drink the older stuff now.
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2013
This has opened up a bit now. It’s a great Comtes, no doubt. If you’re shopping though, there are some bargains around for older vintages, such as the 2007 (which I always thought was underrated). 2014 is just coming, and it’s lovely. But don’t open it until 2026 at a bare minimum,
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2012
Just the best Comtes Rosé….ever? Really refined and honed, less fruit-obvious.
Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2018
This is solid Grande Dame, but it doesn’t feel quite as brilliant as the 2012 or 2008, still. 2015 is a little punchier and might even deliver a little more character. A very easy-going edition that is drinking well already, though.
High end Global Bubbles
Gusbourne 51 Degrees North 2016
Gusbourne just haven’t got this wine right yet. I’m sure they will, but there are many good buys here…
Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs 2016 magnum (late release)
Like this one!
Chapel Down Kits Coty Couer de Cuvée 2016
A nice job here, although it still feels rather pricy. Still these releases have come on lots.
Sugrue South Downs Cuvée Brendan o’Regan Magnum 2016
If you like Dermot’s wines you just have to go for the magnums - they work beautifully with the extra age and large format, and aren’t overpriced.
Nyetimber 1086 2013
Nyetimber are doing a nice job with 1086 releases. I’d love a little more complexity and just a drop of hedonism, somehow (and maybe a smidgen less dosage for this and the lovely rosé) but the style here is just so restrained and pretty. The Blanc de Blancs 2016, though, is the value sweetspot at Nyetimber.
Roebuck Rare Expressions no.19
I actually prefer the other Roebuck wines, which are really good at the moment.
Black Chalk Paragon/Inversion 2020
These two are still available, and they’re both beautiful! Purity and poise.
Digby Fine English Blanc de Blancs 2013
This is developed, rather dramatic and attention-grabbing. Good stuff and one of the best wines Digby have made.
Danbury Ridge Solstice
Solstice is unlike any other English Sparkling Wine, really. It feels like an extension of all the fruit intensity of Danbury’s still wines, but with added drama from quite a complex blend. Go and try it.
Ca del Bosco Annamaria Clementi 2016
Yes! This is hedonistic stuff. Toasty, juicy Chardonnay of real class.
Recaredo Turo d’en Mota 2011
A curveball, but one of the greats of Spain. Sort of Xarel-lo - White burgundy - bubbles.
Pepe Raventos, Clos Petit 2013
I thought this was stunning. A testament to what the Sumoll Negre can do in the hands of someone who really believes in its future in Penedès. Tight, mineral, pulsating - a sort of Cristal Rosé of Penedès!
Pepe Raventos Mas Del Serral 2013
A beautiful vintage of Mas Del Serral. So refined.
Want to know my view on any wines you’ve been thinking about….?
The Champagne yield limit is confusing particularly when yield above limit is allowed as part of reserve. Making it tough to control particularly when there are many NV/MV with majority base vintage. I suppose these NV/MV count as part of the limit?
If the Sussex PDO just has no machine harvesting like the vast majority of quality English Sparkling as you say and there are no real world differences, then do you see it going the way of 'Great British Classic Method'? It all just sounds a bit pretentious.