Interview : Maximilien Bernadeau

I talk to the ex Laurent-Perrier Cellar Master about a job title we don't hear too much about - the oenologist.

Maximilien Bernadeau, a.k.a. Sparkling Maxi, of Zero Dosage Consulting

Firstly, let’s deal with what this interview isn’t about. The world of Champagne was left scratching its head a little in June as Maximilien Bernadeau, announced as Laurent-Perrier Chef de Cave in 2023, left the house after barely a year. Bernadeau is not the first to serve a truncated term at the Maison in recent times; Dominque Demarville made the move from Veuve Clicquot in 2019 only to leave, once again barely a year later, for ambitious small house Lallier. Long-term cellar master Michel Fauconnet remained at the house throughout both appointments, and was present in London just two weeks ago to show off the new cuvée ‘Héritage’ (which will be reviewed in Decanter Premium soon).

It’s a dash of soap opera, perhaps, a side-show whilst the house continues an undeniably rich vein of form. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to talk to Bernadeau as a free agent, though; we spoke about how consultants actually have a major role to play in the production of many independent champagnes, what oenologists actually do, how Champagne’s winemaking needs to adapt and the potential, and on Bernadeau’s work in the wider world of sparkling wine as he launches his consultancy Zero Dosage Consulting.

This is a pretty technical interview - if not quite black-run bubblehead stuff then pretty close - and refreshingly honest, too. Next week, there will be another interview with a prominent independent consultant, this time in the vineyards, which gets right into the weeds (literally and figuratively). Thanks, then, to the growing band of paid subscribers who, it seems, are here for some geekery…