The Directory - Champagne (A-C) [FREE to read]
My thoughts on 300+ Champagne Producers
(*) - my favourites - quality, consistency, character
Producers are listed by surname.
Organic (O), Biodynamic (BIOD), certified VDC and/or HVE. ‘V’ are ones that are working to high viticultural standard, but not accredited.
Last update - March 2024
Pascal Agrapart/ Agrapart et Fils *
A huge figure in indie champagne and legend of the Côte des Blancs. Even through it’s pricy, I’d shoot for ‘Mineral’ over the two entry wines these days, although they hold plenty of charm. ‘Venus’ is painfully expensive now, but it can be stunning. These are always beguiling, delicate yet insistent wines that get under your skin, somehow; precise but not anodyne, expressive but not prised open too much. V (2024)
Yann Alexandre *
Deserving of wider recognition, this small domaine in Courmas in the Vesle is producing some brilliant wines, packed with fruit, savour and tension and made with some real care. Rosé, Vintage and ‘Sous les Roses’ have all been excellent lately - you can’t go too far wrong other than to say it’s worth upgrading to ‘Grande Reserve’ over the entry level, even though ‘Brut Noir’ is fine stuff. V (2023)
Alexis *
I’ve been very impressed with some of the Meunier from Alexis Leconte lately (including ‘Arietis’ from the North bank of Marne, and the entry Terre Mère). Let’s see how they develop - they have appeared to impress most fairly young recently. Big, bold style with fruit concentration and oak, but an inner brightness, too. V (2024)
Armand de Brignac
If you’ve tasted Ace of Spades, you’ll know. What’s it all about? Perfectly sound, fruit and sweet-natured quality. In truth the wines are solid, but the pricing is not realistic for anyone buying them purely on wine quality terms. (2022)
Arnaud-Tabourin
Fair, fruity and easy fare from Les Riceys. HVE (2022)
Augustin
Dynamic, if a little unpredictable wines from this independent estate, which practices biodynamic viticulture in Avenay Val d’Or. A little uncompromising in style. One to follow. BIOD (2023)
Ayala *
A house on the rise. Chardonnay dominates. Crisp, clean and balanced, both the Brut Majeur and top Perle d’Ayala have seen big leaps in quality recently (not sure the Rosé and Brut Nature have quite made it as far yet). The vintaged Blanc de Blancs may be the star in terms of value, though. O (in conversion in own estate, c. 1/5 of supply). (2023)
Barnaut
These are nicely-made, straight-up Pinot-led wines full of weighty Southern Montagne character. Last tasted lots of 2017 base, which not the strongest- to taste again. HVE/VDC (2023)
Barons de Rothschild
Solid, clean, sometimes rather buttery and approachable wines that are full of promise have not quite hit their potential yet, especially given the impressive locations of their contracted vineyards (mostly in Le Mesnil and Vertus). There’s plenty of effort and investment going in here, including for a new winery in Vertus - so certainly worth watching. (2022)
Barrat-Masson
Fine fruit at this friendly small grower in the Sézanne, showing some particular flavour signatures; I need to re-taste these. O (2022)
Hélène Beaugrand
Hélène makes sunny, nicely-refined Chardonnay cuvées from prime sites in Montgueux. Smart wines, especially ‘Au Coeur des Racines’ . Certainly a property to watch. HVE (2023)
Beaumont des Crayères
Co-op. Solidly made and affordable wines centred around Meunier. (2022)
Françoise Bedel
Mature, characterful and developed wines from Crouttes-sur-Marne at the Western end of the Marne valley. Lots of spicy, savoury interest, if not the most classical in style.
Bérèche et Fils *
A serious style here from this small house based in Ludes (N.B. - not technically a grower any more). Deeply-favoured, concentrated and impactful. Usually strong in difficult vintages, too, with a lot more going on at entry level than most. The top crus are now rather expensive, but worth hunting down (esp Le Cran, Campania Remensis Rosé and Les Beaux Regards (my favourite). Reflet d’Antan is not for the shy! V (2024)
Besserat de Bellefon
Rather mixed wines from this Épernay house, but the non-MLF style can work (vintage and blanc de noirs best on recent tasting). The prestige cuvée B.B. disappoints, though. (2022)
Billecart-Salmon *
Billecart is mid-transformation at the moment. The entry Brut Réserve and Brut Sous Bois are undergoing serious tuning by cellar master Florent Nys - more energy, focus and length, looking very, very smart from 2019 base onwards (and perhaps upstaging the straight vintage cuvée and the NV blanc de blancs). The ‘Cuvée Louis’ blanc de blancs and ‘Elisabeth Salmon’ rosé are hitting some imperious form (I usually gravitate toward them rather than Nicolas-François Billecart). HVE/VDC on own vineyard, which represents c. 1/3 of supply. (2023)
H Blin
Adequate, fruity Meunier-driven wines from a co-op in the village of Vincelles. (2023)
Maxime Blin
Grower in Trigny in the Vesle. Cool-fruited, easy and approachable wines from the sandy soils of the Vesle here, with plenty of apricot-scented Meunier. ‘Grande Tradition’ impresses the most.
Boizel
The last tasting of these wines I held seemed to feature many from the 2017 base vintage. I have been more impressed on other occasions, though, so need to revisit these. (2022)
Bolieu
A rare grower from the Vitryat, home of a fair bit of Chardonnay that gets sold on and now a handful of independent producers. These were pretty, true and snappy amongst the added warmth and bustle of the sub-region; Fleur de Craie and Carnet de Léone impressed most lately. (2023)
Bollinger *
Bollinger are in full stride under Denis Bunner, from the vineyard to the cellar. One senses that everything is fully tuned-up; there’s a technical inquisitiveness about Bunner that would seem to put to bed any of the questions over consistency that arose in the early 2000s. Grande Année has been terrific since 2012 especially, with 2014 (and especially the Rosé) making their case for wines of the vintage. The latest ‘PN’ releases have impressed too. Non-vintage is as dependable as ever; it doesn’t seem to be going through the same sort of transformations as a few other Grande Marque NVs. Overall there’s more definition, detail and vivacity to Bollinger’s wines than ever, without losing an inch of the house’s generous DNA. Bollinger are now B-Corp certified for sustainability. V in own vineyard, which represents c. 60% of supply. (2024)
Bonnaire/Paul Clouet
This family estate produces wines in both Cramant (Bonnaire, mostly blanc de blancs) and Bouzy (Paul Clouet, Pinot Noir-heavy). On recent showings the Bonnaire wines have impressed the most, although both seem to be on the up with more precision. Some good values too, including at vintage level. HVE (2023)
Alexandre Bonnet *
Careful, clean and enjoyable wines from Les Riceys in the Côte des Bar. It’s Pinot Noir country, and Blanc de Noirs and Rosé are understandably the strengths over the white grapes (although there’s a good cuvée ‘7 Cépages’ with Arbane/Petit Meslier). 2021 based wines perhaps not as strong - look for 2020 or wait for 2022. HVE (2023)
Bonnet-Gilmert
Small estate in Oger in the Côte des Blancs. These are carefully-made, approachable and creamy Blanc de Blancs made without oak influence and with a good helping of reserve wines in the NVs. Entry level ‘La Réserve’ and Millésime impress.
Franck Bonville
Well-regarded independent producer based in Avize. In 2022 I found some slightly unusual, gluey characters in these wines on repeated tastings. In 2023 a retaste of the whole range was better. Hard to call - some wines hold plenty of promise (entry-level impressed most recently). Belles Voyes is not worth the outlay, though. HVE (2023)
La Borderie
Totally charming and carefully-made wines in Bar-sur-Seine. Consistently fine, fruity and pure in style, the whole range can impress with refined softness of texture and surprising delicacy. V (2022)
Elise Bougy
Limited tasting experience of these wines. A name in the spotlight, working some promising plots. Ripe, single-terroir focus with some smart oak usage. The prices are elevated. O on own small estate. (2022)
Bourgeois-Diaz
Sustainably-minded producer in Crouttes-sur-Marne. Naturally-orientated wines with pretty fruit and notable low-SO2 characters (a little wild ‘n wooly at times, if you like that sort of thing). BIOD (2022)
Manon Boutillez-Guer
A new name in Villers-Marmery as Manon takes over her parents’ domaine. So far, youthful and bright. To follow. (2023)
Brimoncourt
A small house in Aÿ, focusing on Chardonnay-led wines. Fruity, zesty and straight down the middle style - what I’ve tasted so far has been very solid and approachable. Worth keeping an eye on. (2022)
Le Brun de Neuville
Sézannais Co-Op. Fruity, rather creamy and cleanly-made Chardonnay (for the most part). There’s some ambition here, and the wines represent good value - potentially a smart place to look for the on-trade. ‘Double Autolyse’ is good fun, with lots of lees character. (2022)
Emmanuel Brochet
Small grower (2.5 ha) in Villers-aux-Noeuds near Reims. The ‘Mont Benoit’ looks over Reims itself - it’s a serious, drying and mineral champagne of some savour and complexity, made with a gentle hand on the rudder. The price has rocketed recently, but it’s still an invigorating, expressive champagne well worth tasting. O (2022)
Gaspard Brochet *
Developing a somewhat cultish reputation almost out of the blocks, but for good reason based on recent tasting; pure, supple and fragrant wines from Éceuil in the Petite Montagne that cloak a lot of detail and interest in a style that doesn’t lack for charm and ease. I haven’t tasted everything, but would like to soon… V
Louis Brochet *
A name to watch in Éceuil in the Petite Montagne. Quite serious, dry and persistent wines focusing on Pinot Noir. The entry level Héritage is showing the contemporary work being done, whereas the vintage ‘HBH’ can be pretty bold. V (2023)
Brice *
Cristophe Constant is now in charge of winemaking at this small house in Bouzy. Quite a distinctive and intriguing style, with some tasteful oak, herbs and red fruit, plush but not heavy. One to follow. Try the Blanc de Noirs Heritage. O on own vineyard (majority of supply) (2023)
Louise Brison
Noé-Les-Mallets in the Côte des Bar. The new wines here, made since organic conversion, show some promise, with more vivacity and a youthfulness that suits the fruit. O (2023)
Domaine de Bichery
Buzzy biodynamic producer in Neuville-sur-Seine. When tasted in spring 2023, these were a little variable with some rustic notes. BIOD (2023)
Caillez-Lemaire
Limited experience here, but some lovely fruit and a quality ethos from this charming grower in Cumières/Hautvillers. ‘Jadis’ can impress in good vintages. I’m due a visit to taste through everything. O (2023)
Etienne Calsac *
Etienne is making modern, vivid and imaginative wines from fruit in the Côte des Blancs, Sézanne and Côte des Bar from his small modern winery in Avize. Plenty of highlights here - including Les Revenants, one of Champagne's finest examples of the ‘alternative’ varieties (Etienne is a fan of Petit Meslier in particular). Les Rocheforts, a Chardonnay from Bisseuil, is also impressive. V (2022)
Canard-Duchêne
Sizeable house whose wines are feeling a little old-fashioned and overworked at the moment. Ripe for some renewal. VDC on own vineyard (2023)
Aurore Casanova
A new producer based in Mardeuil, working plots in Le Mesnil and Puisieulx. Ex ballerina Aurore and Jean-Baptiste Robinet are converting to Organics and turning out bright, intense and fragrant champagnes worth following. ‘Union’ impressed over ‘Les Petites Vignes’ most recently.
Castelnau
One of the brands (together with Nicolas Feuillate) of the enormous Terroirs et Vignerons de Champagne Co-Op. Safe and solid wines at NV given the size here. There can be some surprises at vintage level (and in the library collection). (2023)
Cazé-Thibaut*
Grower in Châtillon-sur-Marne, with plenty of Pinot Meunier to play with. These wines are full of interest, but never lose sight of essential enjoyability - there’s a juicy, ripe plumminess to the Meunier here which rides out the low dosages and patient lees-ageing. Very consistent throughout the portfolio, from the introduction ‘Naturellement’ up through bright ‘les Fourches’ Chardonnay and the fine old vine massale selection ‘Les Leriens’. V (2024)
Cedric Bouchard (Roses de Jeanne) *
If you know the wines of Roses de Jeanne, then you won't need me to tell you that they're often brilliant. Super ripe, detailed fruit from Celles-sur-Ource, presented with unusual precision and freshness (no oak) and a quite Burgundian reductive tilt. Extremely rare and expensive now - be aware that you're paying for scarcity. Don't expect big, developed, classical lees-aged champagne flavours - these are about purity. V (2024)
Roland Champion
Super attractive, sunny but refreshing blanc de blancs from this grower in Chouilly. Entry level impresses - ‘Eclat de Craie’ and ‘Grand Eclat’, and Special Club is a fine buy too. I have been less taken by the the new limited-edition bottlings, which are a little rough-n-ready at times. (2024)
Guy Charlemagne
A little under the radar, this grower sits over the road from Salon in Le Mesnil. Vintage level (including Mesnilissime) is where to shoot. Plenty of true-to-type Mesnil tension and excitement. Now passed on to the next generation - to follow. (2022)
Vincent Charlot/Charlot-Tanneaux
Grower in Mardeuil, Marne Valley. These wines are developed and intensely characterful, with a little wild side too - they’re great fun. Or des Basses Ronces is a fullsome, unusual Chardonnay. BIOD (2023)
Chartogne-Taillet *
Up in the Massif de Saint-Thierry North-West of Reims Alexandre Chartogne is an (almost) lone voice in grower champagne. Deeply researched, thoughtful and characterful wines that take in oak beautifully. Entry level is fine stuff, and Les Barres has proven another favourite, as has ‘Heurtbise’ Chardonnay. (2024)
Chavost
A new-ish name in Chavost-Courcourt in the Coteuax Sud d’Épernay. Bright, youthful and slightly funky champagnes in the natural mold so far. O (in conversion) (2022)
Clement & Fils
Promising wines from Congy in the Petit Morin here (made famous by Ulysse Colin). Smooth, soft, ripe but energetic wines - Les Champettes was the most recent pick. (2023)
André Clouet
Friendly, creamy Pinot-led wines than can be pretty serious. To investigate a little more, although I’ve yet to quite catch the enthusiasm of a few others. (2023)
Coessens *
I’d like to get to know these wines from Jérôme Coessens in Ville-sur-Arce in the Côte des Bar better as what I’ve tasted to far has been bright, sophisticated and delicious. V (2023)
Ulysse Collin *
Olivier Collin’s wines from the Petit Morin and Sézanne have hit the stratosphere lately, both in terms of price and quality. It can be rather hard to find them unless you’re already a customer - in which case you know what you’re in for. The limited blanc de blancs releases are often a little more dynamic than Les Pierrères (which tends to me more approachable). Les Maillons is often the most affordable wine, a seriously fine Blanc de Noirs perched between delicacy and maturity. V (2023)
Marie Copinet
Organic estate in Montgenost in the Sézanne. These are fine, vivid and promising wines that rank amongst the Sézanne’s most enjoyable independent champagnes. ‘Nos pas dans la craie’ is chalky, yet juicy, Chardonnay; the style here has an emphasis on freshness and ease, although there is a delicious ‘Argille Villenissa’ aged in clay amphora made from the estate’s own clay.
Corbon *
Agnès Corbon flies under the radar in Avize, but makes small quantities of terrific Blanc de Blancs, throughout the range. Vintage level can be superb, if you can find it, but ‘Les Bacchantes’ and ‘Anthracite’ can also impress. HVE (2022)
Cossy
From Jouey-les-Reims in the Petite Montagne. Shooting for quite a plush, fruity style here - vintage level impressed the most recently. VDC (2023)
Roger Coulon
From Vrigny in the Petite Montagne. There’s some great fruit here - full of fragrance and flavour intensity. The style veers towards oxidative in a casual, rather than totally considered, way, with a little sternness at play. L’Hommée has impressed the most lately. One to follow. O (2023)
Marie Courtin *
Dominique Moreau’s wines from Polisot in the Côte des Bar can be very exciting indeed. Complex, delicate and rather beautiful. I have a soft spot for the entry ‘Résonance’. BIOD (2023)
Crusifix Père et Fils
Bold, oak-influenced wines from Avenay Val d’Or. Intense, chewy style that could do with a little finessing. (2023)