The List - Feb 2023
Fifteen Champagne and Sparkling Wines to buy in The UK right now
After the popularity of December’s post amongst my UK readers, I thought it would be good to do a slightly more regular roundup of what’s catching my eye. There’s a range of prices, but they all pass the would-I-buy-it test. Do add anything you spot in the comments.
There are a few rosés in there, but somehow I suspect most of my readers won’t be the sort of people rushing out for pink bubbles just for Valentine’s day. Too many indie rosé champagnes and sparkling wines are still in clear glass, sadly, so I hesitate to recommend them due to the risk of light damage (I’ve just bought a few after a detailed discussion with the retailer over how they had been stored and packed!). It’s an area where the larger champagne houses have been making progress (and England is doing very well, too). There are a lot of beautiful wines that stand a reasonable chance of arriving you not tasting as they should, so they tend not to feature - simple as that.
A plug, too, for a piece I’ve just written at timatkin.com on Kafka, Scratch and Sniff, and webmasters. And wine. Not so useful, perhaps - no wine recommendations, anyway - but I had fun putting it together.
Agnès Corbon, Avize
Champagne
Marie-Courtin, Résonance Brut £49.75 Scala Wine with tim@scalawine.com
Tim Hall has assembled a varied, characterful and enticing list of independent, ‘single estate’ champagnes. The wines of the brilliant Agnès Corbon in Avize (above) have recently featured, although stock is low. Look out for Lacourte-Godbillon and Nicolas Maillart, too, as well as a range of wines from Marie-Courtin, a biodynamic producer in the Côte des Bar, in stock. Résonance is a beautifully transparent Blanc de Noirs.
Alexis Terre Mère, Sip! Champagnes £50 or £270 per six
The 2017 base of this 100% Pinot Meunier from Troissy really impressed with its vivid fruitiness and expressiveness. This is a brand new arrival with (I believe a new, and better-regarded) base vintage, so it’s certainly worth a go.
Tarlant Brut Zero in Magnum, £78 Bubbleshop
Tarlant’s wines always have an energising streak of slightly wild ‘n wooly energy - lots of personality and fun. One third Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier each, with a magnum bonus for £78.
Marguet Shaman ‘19, £46.95 mixed 6, Lea & Sandeman
Marguet’s repute means this is no longer quite the bargain it was, but it’s still a dynamic, more naturally-styled Pinot Noir-led champagne for those looking for something not to prim and proper. Still, the 2019 base has natural elegance.
Philipponnat 1522 2008 Magnum, £169.95 Champagne One
Buying a magnum of vintage is often the same price as a 75cl of Prestige Cuvée and, with the extra age here, this looks like good value for a consistent over-performer. Brilliant 2008 energy in this broad, saturated Pinot Noir-led classic. I’ve not tasted the magnum, but I’m imagining this is in a pretty good place right now.
Henriot Blanc de Blancs £210 for six, The Wine Society
I’ve listed this before, but it’s still a good price for this fine, reductively-styled blanc de blancs.
Veuve Clicquot Extra Brut Extra Old No. 3, £58.75 The Champagne Company
A bit of a hidden gem here, and on a completely different level (for not all that much more money) than Veuve’s Yellow Label. All reserve wines, going back to 1990, I found this really rather impressive and complex when tasted at the winery last year. One to taste blind for those that think that Grande Marque champagnes aren’r interesting.
Taittinger Prelude Magnum £320 for three in bond, The Finest Bubble
For sheer drinking pleasure, price and cellar-worthiness this is hard to beat from the well-known houses. Prelude is rather overlooked - I often prefer it to the house’s vintage offering. Hard to resist with a bit of magnum supercharging.
A. Margaine Le Brut Magnum, £45 in bond A&B vintners
Yes, that’s right, price for a magnum in bond! A delicately juicy Chardonnay-based delight from the village of Villers-Marmery.
Pierre Moncuit Millesime 2008 £235 for six in bond, Seckford Wines
A silly price for a well-made 2008 blanc de blancs from Grand Cru villages. Grab some.
Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millesime 2008 £450 per six in bond, Turville Valley Wines
This formidable vintage rosé still needs time, but it will be worth it.
Doyard Revolution Blanc de Blancs Non Dosé in Magnum, £285 for 3 magnums in bond, Chelsea Vintners
It’s well worth looking at the whole Doyard range at Chelsea Vintners, although the Rosé and the Revolution are the wines that catch my eye.
Tasting the latest Extra Brut Extra Old, Reims November 2022
Elsewhere
Roebuck Estates Rosé de Noirs 2016 £39.95 The Whisky Exchange
I showed this Rosé from Sussex based producers Roebuck at my English Viticulture Seminar and tasting last week, and it really shone. Real delicacy for 100% Pinot.
Ridgeview Limited Release Blanc de Blancs 2009 Magnum, £125 The Wine Society
I also showed this; still the highest score I’ve given to an English sparkler, from one of the oldest and best-performing Chardonnay plots in the country next to the winery at Ridgeview. Anyone interested in England should try one.
Roederer Estate Quartet Rosé £155.99 for six, North South Wines
A good price for this stylish, ripe but polished rosé from the Anderson valley, California. Hard to beat for £25.80 per bottle.
Please note Scala's email is tim@scalawine.com not .co.uk as in the original email